I use 50mm because I want the its reach or 50mm just works for the composition. Usually I am ping-ponging between 28 & 50mm, so 35mm sees the least use. 28mm is probably the MATE's strongest focal length. Especially so at F8 and F11.Īs for lens draw, I like the MATE's character at 28mm. The MATE is definitely capable of sharp, highly detailed images. At F8-11 the MATE's edges and corners are sharp and well defined. Most of my landscapes are shot F8, and occasionally F11. Using the red filter + polarizer robs some sharpness and definition, so stopping down helps. When focus is well placed, and the light and contrast are photographically pleasing, the results can look really good - even at F4. Thus, sometimes I place focus too far forwards or backwards, and that undermines the sharpness. Seeing critical focus with the Leica M Monochrom Typ 246's low resolution EVF can be very difficult. F4 inherently has a healthy amount of depth of field, especially so at 28mm and 35mm. Sharpness at F4 can be hit or miss mostly due to the lens' F4 maximum aperture coupled with using the EVF for focus. Moving onto sharpness and such, the MATE can be surprisingly good. Whereas the flare is a universal issue, likely due to the shallow lens hood. is unique to my situation and stacking filters with the Leica M Monochrom Typ 246 to maximize contrast at time of capture. Lastly, bear in mind all this hub-bub about filters, vignetting, etc. Using the step-up rings and lens shade completely obfuscates the rangefinder windows, but that is a non-issue since I always focus with the Leica EVF-2 when using red filters. Despite my best effort, flare still manages to worm its way in from time to time. I wrote "usually" because the lens flare seemingly strikes from nowhere sometimes, such as mid-afternoon sunlight bouncing off the roadway. Attaching the Contax #4 Metal Hood usually takes care of 50mm. The B+W 49-67mm ring + Contax 67-86 Metal Ring works at 28mm. If shooting without filters, then a deeper lens hood is all that is really needed. Frankly, I think 28mm will always show a slight vignette if using a filter or step-up ring. The Contax 67-86mm ring almost does the job, but slightly vignettes at 28mm, so still searching for a vignette-free solution. If shooting at an oblique angle to the sun, sunlight glances off the filters and tends to streak. To avoid reflections, I use a B+W 49-67mm step up ring (no cut-outs). If stacking a red filter and polarizer, that stack will vignette heavily if using the MATE's E49 front filter thread, thus the 49-67mm step-up ring is needed. Those cut outs allow light enter behind the filter, bounce off the backside of the filter and cause flare and/or reflections. Problems begin when using Leica's 49-67mm set-up ring, which has cut-outs. It is worth noting that Leica made a specific E49 slim UV filter (#13329). If using a single filter 49mm filter, there might be minor shading at 28mm in the extreme corners, but nothing problematic. However, in my day-to-day use the more pressing issue has been filters. Thus a tiny hood which is not very effective at 50mm. The lens hood has to be shallow enough to not vignette at 28mm, and small enough to avoid blocking the rangefinder windows. While there might be inherent design shortcomings increasing the lens' propensity to flare, in my experience the problem is the shallow lens hood. LENS HOODS & FILTERSĬutting straight to the meat of the review, lens flare has not been a problem with 28mm or 35mm, just 50mm. That means fun with red filters and stacking polarizers from time to time. All the pictures were taken with Leica's current Monochrom, the Leica M Monochrom Typ 246. If the lens had a good weekend, that motivated me to do it again the next weekend. That “goal” unintentionally morphed into a personal challenge. The goal was to show what the MATE could do. And maybe debunk some of the Leica 28-35-50mm F4 Tri-Elmar-M ASPH's negative press. 68.2mm Long when Mounted, 53.0mm Diameterįor this review I decided to use the lens for a couple months, go to my usual spots and show the lens in a good light - literally.
0 kommentar(er)
